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How to Wear the Trousers.
There is much to consider when buying
trousers:
The Cut
Crucial points affecting the cut of a good pair of trousers are
the size of the wearer's stomach and behind, the length of his
legs, the desired height of the waist and the width of the
trouser bottoms. If you have a flat stomach you have a wide
choice in the cut of the waist area. Slender men who do not like
front pleats will look good in a pair of trousers cut to fit
close to the stomach. If they do like pleats, one pleat to each
trouser leg is best. The pleats will ensure that the trousers
are still comfortable when they are sitting down, and will
conceal anything they have in their pockets. If you are rather
large around the waist, then a pair of trousers tapering
slightly downward will be best, since straight-cut trousers will
quite obviously end in disproportionately wide trouser bottoms.
The Waist Area
Pleats are there for drape and comfort; they give necessary
roominess. Trousers with no pleats, clean fronts allow a neater
fit. If you cannot quite manage without pleats, trousers with
one pleat to each leg provide a neat and comfortable fitting.
However if you prefer a more generous cut, trousers with two
pleats offer a larger, baggier, and more comfortable fitting. A
man with small hips and rather flat behind will look good in
pleated trousers.
The Rise
The rise, the distance from crotch to waistband, has to allow
you enough room. The waistband should situate itself just below
your navel, not down on your hips. People have always worn their
pants at the natural waist.
The Cuffs
Cuffs are an optional fashion idea. They look appropriate with
suits, sports jackets, and blazers alike. They not only give the
suit a finished appearance but their added weight makes the
trousers hang better. However if you do not like cuffs, there is
no need to have them on the trouser, particularly if you prefer
trousers without front pleats, since these look better without
cuffs in any case.
Rather short men can also have their trousers cuffed. The
difference between cuffs for a short man and for a man a few
inches taller is the recommended width. While the cuff for a man
of average height now measures from one and three-quarter inches
to two inches, a short man will do better with a narrower cuff -
about one and a quarter to one and a half inches
The Length
The proper length for trousers is a full break or slight break
in the crease. A full break means trousers are hemmed to reach
the top of the heel of a standard dress shoe, naturally breaking
over the front of the shoe. Trouser break is not mandatory. Some
customers often request a slight break. So it is all a matter of
taste. |
